Hong Kong, harbour to hilltop

Hong Kong is small enough to see properly in a few days, and most of what you came for is either a short train ride away or a short walk uphill. This is a first visit, arranged so that each half-day has one big thing in it and room around it.

Start with the Star Ferry

The Star Ferry has crossed Victoria Harbour since 1888, and the crossing between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central is still one of the least expensive ways to see the skyline. Go on the upper deck, sit on the left going towards Central, and take the photo of the city from the water rather than from a tower.

Around the Central pier: the Ferry Pier area, the Mid-Levels escalator, and the streets of Sheung Wan for lunch. In the evening, the harbour front on the Kowloon side is where the city looks at itself.

Ride the Peak Tram

The Peak Tram has been climbing since 1888 (the Peak Tramways heritage pages say over 138 years of it). The tram leaves from Central and rises at an angle that makes the buildings look like they are leaning. Book a time slot on the operator’s own site, go late morning or just before dusk, and walk the Nature Walk circuit at the top: it is flat, paved and gives you the view from several angles.

Cross to Lantau for the Big Buddha

The Ngong Ping 360 cable car runs from Tung Chung, near the airport, over the sea and the hills to Ngong Ping village. It takes about 25 minutes, and the Tian Tan Buddha and Po Lin Monastery are a short walk from the top station. Ngong Ping 360 publishes its opening hours daily, usually 10:00 to 18:00, and a little longer at weekends.

Tai O is a fishing village on western Lantau. Check local bus routes and the last return service when combining it with Ngong Ping.

Spend a day in the middle of the city

Hong Kong’s central districts are walkable if you accept stairs and hills.

• Sheung Wan and Central for dried seafood shops, old lanes and coffee, then the escalator up to SoHo.
• Mong Kok for markets: the flower market, the bird garden and the goldfish market are close together.
• Sham Shui Po for electronics and cheap, very good food, and a completely different pace from the harbour.
• Kowloon Walled City Park for a quiet hour in a garden that replaced the densest place on earth.

The MTR links all of it, and the ferries link the rest.

Get a train card on arrival

The Airport Express reaches Hong Kong Station in about 24 minutes. Compare individual journey fares with a Tourist Day Pass for your itinerary. The pass excludes the Airport Express and some other services; check MTR’s current eligibility and coverage before buying.

Phones: Hong Kong runs on its own networks (CSL, SmarTone, 3 Hong Kong and China Mobile Hong Kong), and our Hong Kong eSIM plans name the network before you pay. Two practical notes for a first visit: Google Maps, WhatsApp and Instagram all work normally in Hong Kong, which is not true across the border in mainland China, and the MTR has free Wi-Fi at stations, so you can get your bearings before you buy anything.

When to go

Check Hong Kong Observatory forecasts and each transport operator’s service notices before heading out. Severe weather can disrupt outdoor attractions and transport; opening and reopening times depend on the operator.

our Hong Kong plans